I recently took a trip to London. Having lived there for over 10 years and just outside it for nearly seven, I wasn’t expecting much to surprise me on my visit…but boy was I wrong, and it all started when I spotted a lighthouse on a roof in Kings Cross
There I was heading back to my hotel, stuck at a pedestrian crossing waiting for the traffic lights to change, when I looked up to see a rainbow – but, then, to the left of it, on top of the building, I spotted a lighthouse!!!
What the hell? Google. Google. I need you immediately!
Okay so Google wasn’t hugely helpful as what it told me is that no-one exactly knows why there’s a lighthouse stuck on a roof at the corner of Greys Inn Road and Pentonville Road, but the most likely theory is that it was originally something to do with an oyster bar located on a ground floor of that building at some point in the 1800s.
As I looked all of this up, the kernel of a blog post was born…what else was hidden in plain view in the UK’s capital city? It seems that actually there’s quite a lot…I found 15 more hidden London secrets that I then went to check out – chances are you’ve walked past more than one of them without realising it was even there.
Hidden London Fabulousness 1. The Singing Lift in the Festival Hall
I could literally have gone up and down in this all day. It’s fantastic. Created by composer Martin Creed, the singing voices get higher as the lift ascends and go down the octaves as it descends. I kept telling friends about this while I was there and no-one had even heard of it, let alone gone up and down in it three or four times (yes, that was me!). Check out the video to see just how cool it is.
We're in #London right now finding #coolstuff and there's a singing lift in the Royal Festival Hall. #🎤 How could I not have known this before? It's brilliant! To find it head to the back furthest from the river and look for the glass lift up the right. The sound is different both ways. #southbank #royalfestivalhall #soundon
As you’d suspect about something I’m describing as a part of hidden London, the singing lift isn’t marked with a sign saying ‘Absolutely Fantastic Fun to be Had Here’ or anything, it just looks like a normal glass lift, so, to save you going up and down all day waiting for music in the non-fun lifts, here’s how to find it.
Enter the Festival Hall at the far right door (if the river is behind you) and head right to the back by the ladies toilets.
I’d suggest getting on the Singing Lift at the first floor and going up to the sixth to get the full experience. It’ll also help if you can get the lift to yourself as stopping at different floors will spoil the fun – for this reason avoid visiting at busy times like lunchtime and when events are starting. I went about 2pm on a Monday and played for far longer than should be sensible for someone over the age of seven!
Hidden London Fabulousness 2. The Farm Just Off Brick Lane
Normally when I’m in the vicinity of Brick Lane in East London, I’m looking for curry or street art, not a donkey called Derek – but that was before I spotted the words Spitalfields City Farm on the map.
I admit when I first read it, I was expecting a glorified allotment, somewhere growing organic tomatoes to sell at some fancy Farmer’s Market in Shoreditch – but no. This has goats, it’s got donkeys, it’s got grumpy looking pigs and sheep that hang out in a phone box.
I spent a good hour there just wandering around all the nooks and crannies and the attention to detail and obvious love in the place is amazing – and even better, it’s free (though donations would be very welcome).
A full post on it is here, but if you want to find out more in the meantime you’ll find them on their website, a place where they also tease you about fantastic sounding events like Goat Racing and Moosic for Cows. What’s not to love?
You’ll find Spitalfields City Farm on Buxton Street, E1. They open every day but Monday from 10am to 4pm.
Hidden London Fabulousness 3. The Tiny Mice of Philpot Lane EC3
While managing to miss a giant lighthouse or a herd of goats located randomly in the middle of a housing estate might seem like an oversight, I can be forgiven for not spotting this hidden London treasure before – it’s London’s smallest public sculpture.
Youll find it high on the wall above the juice bar at 23 Eastcheap (although the sculpture is on the side on Philpot Lane) and it’s of two mice fighting over a piece of cheese.
Rumour has it that sculpture reflects the story of two men working on the building of the nearby Monument tower who got into a fight over a cheese sandwich – while a few storeys up. The fight got out of hand and they fell to their deaths.
Hidden London Fabulousness 4. The Boat Above Queen Elizabeth Hall
Okay, so this is a pretty big boat so if you’ve been to London before it’s unlikely you haven’t spotted it – but I still love the fact that it’s just stuck there.
It’s called Le Roi de Belges and it’s top of the Queen Elizabeth Hall on the Southbank. Put there in 2012 it was only supposed to stay put for a year, but it’s been so popular it’s still in place with no signs of it going anywhere. Occasionally it’s open to the public to stay overnight but you have to go into a ballot to win a place.
And no, I haven’t got all moody with my photography, sadly London really was that grey the day I took the picture! There are some days when I think the sun should also be part of any piece on hidden London as it’s not always that easy to spot there!
Hidden London Fabulousness 5. The Unofficial Blue Plaques on the Southbank
Blue plaques are normally stuck on buildings in London to indicate that people of note have lived there, but one street artist has, in the words of all TV talent show judges, made them his own. His name is Will Coles, and he’s renowned for his love of sticking things places they don’t belong.
I first encountered him in Sydney as there’s quite a lot of his art around where I live and I knew he’d moved his talents to Europe, but I didn’t know he’s done anything in London. But then, I walked around the corner after having lunch in Borough Market and spotted this.
If you want to find it too, take a careful look at the life buoy closest to London Bridge, just as you come round the corner past the Anchor Pub. There’s also another one in the tunnel as you walk under Blackfriars Bridge – and apparently, a heap more dotted around town if you look hard enough.
Hidden London Fabulousness 6: The Secret River in Sloane Square Tube
Because the Circle Line is the most hopeless tube line in the world, I’ve literally spent hours of my life sitting at Sloane Square tube station staring at the big green bridge that runs along the ceiling. Only recently did I discover it actually has a diverted river running through it!
Specifically, it’s the home to the River Westbourne which starts on Hampstead Heath and runs west across London to come up in the Thames just past Chelsea. I always thought it was just a staff footbridge inside the station! If that doesn’t count as hidden London, I don’t know what does!
Image by Ogmios: Used under Creative Commons License.
Hidden London Fabulousness 7. The Old Street Chewing Gum Art
I had literally walked past this three times on my trip until it was pointed out to me as part of the Alternative London Street Art tour that I took one morning. It’s part of a series of works by an artist called Ben Wilson, who paints on pieces of chewing gum all over London. His most famous project is attempting to paint all of the pieces of gum on the Millennium Bridge – something I loved so much I immediately jumped on the bus after the tour to go check it out – and it was amazing. (here’s my post on that little bit of hidden London.) This piece, however, is on Old Street Roundabout right by 99 City Road.
Hidden London Fabulousness 8. The Church Where Nature is In Charge
St Dunstan’s in the East is right in the middle of the City of London – but when you wander inside you’d think you were in fairyland. There’s shrubs, palm trees, vines, ivy and foliage spilling everywhere, it’s like the Tomb Raider temple in Cambodia – but with pews!
Well, kind of – as the church was seriously damaged in the Blitz only its shell remains. Instead of knocking it down though, the City of London Corporation decided to turn it into a public garden in the late 1960s and it’s kind of grown its own way ever since. It’s gorgeous to look at and really peaceful to sit in – you’d never guess that it’s just a couple of minutes walk from the City.
Hidden London Fabulousness 9. The Seven Noses of Soho
Did you know that there are noses stuck on walls all over Soho? Again, why is the stuff of legends – some are by a street artist protesting the use of CCTV cameras, at least one of the others no-one is quite sure about – but there are apparently 10 of an original 35 noses left in place and seven of them appear in a just few small blocks in Soho.
I’ve given you one clue re finding a nose with the picture (which is taken on Greek Street in Soho), but you’ll also find another nose very near this a few doors away, then they’re to be found in Dean Street, Bateman Street, Meard Street, Great Windmill Street and D’Arblay Street. Two others are on Admiralty Arch and Endell Street in Covent Garden – and No10 is rumoured to be on on the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in Kings Cross but I haven’t even seen a pic of that one.
The best guide to them I found is on this map. Although even with this, you’ll still have to hunt carefully to actually spot them…I still haven’t found the one in D’Arblay Street. If time is tight, you might want to check out this post by London Walking Tours who gives some helpful clues on how to find things.
Oh, and while we’re talking about random plaster casts of body parts there are also two ears stuck on walls along Floral Street in Covent Garden
Hidden London Fabulousness 10. Edith’s House – The Cafe That Takes You Back to the 70s
I admit I didn’t just stumble across this one as it’s not in an area I normally frequent. Instead, I’d spotted it on Instagram and had to take a trip especially to Crouch End in North London to see it.
From the outside, Edith’s House looks like every other cutesy cafe on North London high street, but inside is another story.
It’s done up to look like your nan’s house in the 1970s and 80s (and is actually inspired by Edith, the nana of one of the owners). If you’re young it’ll just be a cute, kitschy place to Instagram, if you’re over the age of 40, it’ll bring back some serious memories.
Whether it’s the cans of spam and the plastic Homepride Flour man on the shelf; the flouncy toilet seat and doily (you actually use the loo as a chair), the crocheted cover in the ‘bedroom’ or their Charles and Diana tea cups, something in this place will make you feel like a kid again..
And if you don’t go for the decor, go for the food. It’s excellent. I had the Vegan Bundle, £7 which was cashew and chickpea pancakes topped with kale, semi-dried tomatoes and hummus (I’m not vegan but got lured by the idea of hummus and sun-dried tomatoes) with a side of avocado and was one of the best things I ate all trip.
They also have a super-cute dog called Roux, who will come and gaze at you while you eat it. If you’re not a dog person they’ll move her if you don’t like her googly eyes staring at you (their words not mine) – but why would you want to do that, just look at her.
Hidden London Fabulousness 11. The Lamp Powered by Poop
I wonder how many people looking out of the window of the Posh Savoy hotel realise that the olde-world street lamp lighting the side street they overlook is powered by poo.
In fact, it’s the last lamp running on methane gas produced from the sewers left in London – a handy fact I discovered when I went on the London Loo Tour.
The lamp is in Carting Lane if you want to find it yourself, but I do recommend the tour to learn more of the background of some really underground bits of hidden London.
Hidden London Fabulousness 12. The Ruined Palace Surrounded by Restaurants
I’d walked past this piece of land many times, but only ever going from west to east and when you walk that way it just looks like a piece of waste ground.
It’s only when you walk the other way, from Borough Market to Waterloo, and see the huge wall and ornate window ahead of you that you realise that it’s actually part of an entire ruined building – and not just any old building, it’s the Palace of Winchester – erm, sorry, your Royalness but I was always in a hurry when I actually lived here!
The part you can see here is what’s left of the Great Hall. Find it on the Southbank between Borough Market and Shakespeare’s Globe.
Hidden London Fabulousness 13. Cute Photogenic Phoneboxes!
One thing I really took my time to do on this trip was to wander around places I’d not seen before – and Smithfield market was one of these.
Smithfield is London’s main meat market but it trades overnight and the fact that to see it in action means getting there at about 7am means I’ve never bothered going – and because I haven’t been to the market I’ve not even really wandered around the area. Which was stupid of me because it’s full of cute winding old streets, it’s home to the new art-stuffed Culture Mile and, on Grand Avenue, between the two sites of the market itself, you’ll find this fantastically photogenic set of phone boxes!
I still haven’t actually made it to the market though.
Hidden London Fabulousness 14: The Giant Gold Grasshopper
Looking up is always fun in the City of London, the top of the buildings are often surprisingly ornate, but in Lombard Street, you also find some brilliant old hanging signs – including this giant gold grasshopper.
Actually, there are a lot of grasshoppers around the city as they were the emblem of a financier called Sir Thomas Gresham who, in 16th century London, was kind of a big deal. Why he used the grasshopper comes from (yet another) legend. Apparently, an ancestor of his had been abandoned as a baby in some marshland – and, was only found when someone went to find the grasshopper making cute chirping sounds nearby. This one appeared outside a goldsmith the family owned, hence it’s rather fabulous shininess.
You’ll find the Gresham Grasshopper at 68 Lombard Street. There’s also one on top of the Royal Exchange shopping centre.
Hidden London Fabulousness 15: The Tribute Park that Makes Amazing Reading
Postman’s Park is less of a secret after it was used as a location in the Jude Law/Natalie Portman film Closer, but I’d still never seen it until this trip – and even when I read about it, I hadn’t appreciated how cool it actually is.
You see, inside the park is GF Watts Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice – ie people who lost their lives doing selfless acts – but what intrigued me was the level of detail in the descriptions. For example
William Goodrum, signalman aged 60. Lost his life at Kingsland Road Bridge in saving a workman from death under the approaching train from Kew. Who thought it was necessary to add where the train was coming from? The plaques inside are full of such amazing detail and I was fascinated.
Oh, and for my final hidden London top tip – if you do go to Postman’s Park, take some monkey nuts. The squirrels are very used to people and will take them out of your hand!
Where I Stayed on this Trip
London hotels are normally ridiculously expensive, but I found a couple of gems on this trip…one another bit of a hidden London secret, the other, probably a bit more well known. I started off staying in The House of Toby which is a new boutiquey hotel near Kings Cross for which I paid £120 a night, The rooms are small, but perfect for one person – I spent a happy five days there, or a short stay for two. I then moved to the Motel One Tower Hill, which is far bigger but costs a little under £100 a night. Both come highly recommended.
Share the London Love
If you’ve read this far, I’m hoping I’ve surprised you at least once with some of my less than obvious London finds. But is there anything else I need to add? Let me know in the comments – and, if you liked the post, please share it on social media so other people can check out the cool sights of hidden London too.